Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Cosmetic Cannibalism - Big Fish Eating Little Fish & What It Means to You, the Consumer and Your Skin.

Hello GEMS,

I have close ties in the cosmetic/beauty world and usually I am in the know pretty quickly.  Recently, a close friend and multi Emmy award winning makeup artist notified me of yet another cosmetic conglomerate eating up a private brand. 

"Yesterday L'Oreal announced in Paris that it has signed an agreement with private equity firm Castanea Partners to acquire Urban Decay Cosmetics.

So, another indie cosmetic company is being swallowed up by a cosmetic giant...thoughts?" 

KJB

How many of you are already aware of the this happening in the past with other brands?  I can name several and it is surprising to me how many consumers are not aware of the changes within the brands they stand by and are loyal to.  I do not think they want you to know.  So let us talk about some examples and why it matters so much to us, as consumers of retail beauty products.

MAC, in 1996/97 a major portion of the brand was purchased by Estee Lauder for over 200 million.  Small brands need help because they grow to big for their bridges and need help with distribution.  Slowly the brand lost the characteristics that made it unique such as original colors and being a brand that was a GO TO for women of color.  Several makeup professionals and consumers have had to find a new brand because the quality of ingredients was reduced and pigment/color was diluted leaving wearers dissatisfied. or just settling because there were not other options.  The purpose of the formula changes, post buy out, was to widen profit margins for Lauder.  You cannot blame them, after all this is a business so they are just doing what they are supposed to, increase shareholders wealth.

SMASHBOX, recently they were purchased by Estee Lauder for approximately 300 million.  As of yet I am able to say that the ingredients and the products have not been compromised and I am happy to say that.  The owners of Smashbox would not sell to Lauder unless they signed an agreement that they would not change the formulas.  So it did work in SBX's and the creator has been able to retain his soul and his integrity. Go on EL's website and take a look at their list of brands.

BARE MINERALS, cannot say much for this brand except that Leslie Blodgett is a GENIUS at marketing.  So much so she has people who use BE selling it to each other in stores.  Now, why is she a genius?  She got women to make their makeup regime more difficult and messy and made them pay for it.  Leslie, where are you, I need you to convince the Feds to pay off all of our school loans. 
First, are you oily or very young?  No, then why are you wearing a powder?  Second, pressed mineral powders can be found anywhere, need a good one look at Studio Gear in ULTA, it is more portable and less messy AND you get better coverage.  So then why use loose powder?  In fact, BE agreed with this notion, so they have come out with their own line of PRESSED powders.  I thought LOOSE was the best, LESLIE.  They were purchased by Shiseido a great and well known skin care brand.  Smart purchase because they will continue to reap the profits of the incredible marketing campaigns which Leslie still manages. 
All I need to tell you is to read the "ingredients" and ask any associate about BE at a retail beauty store like Sephora or Ulta and ask them to tell you the truth and not what they are mandated to tell you to make sales goals for top selling brands like BE, MUFE, Laura Mercier, etc.  Even now so I am sure me talking about it is going to trigger some purchases.  There are brands struggling that offer the SAME product of incredibly better quality and has multiple uses and high grade minerals without talc however they do not have multi million dollar marketing budgets so you will never find out about them.   


So why should you care about this topic?  It is just makeup right?  Wrong, the items we purchase to adorn our faces are going directly on or around our skin, lips and eyes and ultimately into our blood stream.  In addition, you are being entranced by fancy packaging and delivery pumps.  I think it is worth a question or a little research before you spend your hard earned money on a product that has between a 50% to a 500% profit margin.

Check it out before you buy my beautiful ladies, we deserve the best.

So beauty consumers, what are your thoughts??

Matthew
LI Beauty Educator